3/20/2009 to 3/21/2009 | India , Madhya Pradesh

Bandhavgarh: Tigers in the wild, at last

3rd Tiger I saw, Bandhavgarh National ParkI’ve never had good experiences with Indian wildlife parks. For the most part my experience has been that I pay too much and see too little, at Ranthambore I road around in a jeep seeing little more than deer while Indian tourists who paid a quarter of the price I did talk loudly the whole time. Nevertheless, I did want to see a tiger in the wild, so I decided to make one last try visiting Bandhavgarh National Park which claims one of the highest densities of Tigers in the world, reputedly one of the best places to attempt to see the big cats. […]

1/22/2008 to 1/24/2008 | India , Madhya Pradesh


Detail, Northern Gate, Great Stupa, Sanchi.


Sanchi is a small town near Bhopal (infamous as the site of the Union Carbide chemical gas leak in 1984 that killed over 20,000 people) in central India.  Sanchi is the site of the best preserved of India’s Buddhist stupas.  The stupa complex set on a hill above the town contains some […]

1/17/2008 to 1/21/2008 | India , Madhya Pradesh


Parsvanath Jain temple, Khajuraho.


The temples of Khajuraho are famous for their intricate and graceful carving but even more so for the sexual nature of that carving.  The temples, dating from the 950 to 1050 AD, were forgotten, obscured by the jungle until their rediscovery in the early 19th century.  There remote location and abandonment spared […]

1/14/2008 to 1/16/2008 | India , Madhya Pradesh


Colorful saris, Orchha.


Today Orchha is a small sleepy little village but it was once the capital of a princely state during the 16th to late 18th centuries.   Decaying reminders of its grander past lie scattered around the village in the form of palaces, ruined havlies, temples, and cenotaph’s (monuments built on the sites of […]

12/5/2007, 12/10/2007 to 12/11/2007 | India , Madhya Pradesh

Ujjain, Maheshwar, Omkaheshwar: Holy Rivers, Holy Cities

Woman performing a puja along the river, Maheshwar


While Varanasi may be the most famous and holiest of India’s riverside cities, there are a number of venerated places along India’s extensive network of rivers.  I made my way to three of these revered cities in Madhya Pradesh, stopping first at Ujjian, and then Maheshwar, and Omkaheshwar.  In the absence of […]

12/5/2007 to 12/9/2007 | India , Madhya Pradesh


Rupmati’s Palace, Mandu.


The collection of villages now scattered across the Mandu plateau sit in the shadow of a deserted capital dotted with ruined mosques, palaces, and tombs.  It was once a capital and fortress of a Muslim dynasty that ruled the area during the 15th and early 16th century.  Today it lies in a […]