10/30/2010 to 10/31/2010 | Himachal Pradesh , India


Sui Mata Shrine, Chamba


My final stop in the Chamba Valley, before I headed back to Delhi, was the regional capital of the same name.  Set down in the valley its setting isn’t as impressive as Bharmour’s, but like Bharmour it has an array of impressive temples dating from the 10th to 19th centuries.  The focal […]

10/27/2010 to 10/29/2010 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Manimahesh: Another Kailash

Manimahesh Kailash


I had come to the Chamba Valley with the intention of trekking to Manimahesh Lake, a lake holy to Hindus set in the high Himalayas at 4,080 m (13,390 ft), and dominated by Manimahesh Kailash.  I was hoping to add this Kailash to my Kailash collection, which now included the grand daddy of Kailashes, […]

10/25/2010 to 10/26/2010 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Bharmour and the Chamba Valley

6th century Manimahesh Temple, Bharmour


After 3 years and 9 months to the day on the road in Asia, I had decided to return home to visit my family in California for a few months over Christmas.  I cashed in my remaining frequent flyer miles, and booked my first international flight since I had landed in Hong […]

7/24/2010 to 7/28/2010 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Monsoon Wedding in Manali


I’ve been through Manali often but I’ve never spent much time in the place.  I’m usually on my way up to Ladakh or Spiti anxious to reach my destination.  Malali has never really attracted me much though it’s a very popular destination for both Indian tourists and western backpackers.  Indians are drawn […]

9/17/2009 to 9/22/2009 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Kinnaur Kailash Parikarma


“How will you know the way, the weather is bad, there is a lot of snow,” the senior officer said. “I’ve hiked all over the Himalayas, I hiked the Pin-Paravati pass in a snow storm,” I retorted.  “Ok, I’ll give you the permission if you write a statement that you take responsibility […]

9/7/2009 to 9/15/2009 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Dodging falling rocks on the way to Kalpa, Kinnaur


Is it possible to be simultaneously both jinxed and lucky?  I think I may fall into that category with respect to my travels to Spiti and Kinnaur.   Last year a the snow storm stranded me in Kaza for nine days and prevented my planned visit to Kinnaur, however I was very fortunate […]

9/1/2009 to 9/5/2009 | Himachal Pradesh , India

The Pin-Parvati Pass


I left Ladakh for the Spiti Valley for the second summer in a row; though this time I would go by bus rather than hike in as I had on my last trip.  My previous trip to Spiti was ended by an early snow storm, I hoped this time I would have […]

9/19/2008 to 9/28/2008 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Snowbound in Spiti



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Day 1 (9/20/2009):

I stared out of the window adjacent to my bed.  The steady rain which had started early in the morning was now turning to fluttering white flakes of snow.  Looking across at the gray skies which now isolated the white flat roofed Tibetan buildings of […]

9/12/2008 to 9/18/2008 | India , Ladakh

Tso Moriri to the Spiti Valley via the Parang La



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We awoke in Korzok, the village nestled along the northwestern bank of the high altitude sailine lake of Tso Moriri, to a mass exodus.  Anyone with any mode of transportation, horse, donkey, tractor, jeep, motorcycle, truck, anything that could move a person to some where other than Korzok, […]

6/5/2008 to 7/11/2008 | Himachal Pradesh , India

Nepal to Ladakh: via Dharamsala

Namgyal Tsemo Gompa, Leh.


The toughest leg in my journey from Nepal to Ladakh in northwest India was not the bone shattering 24 hour Manali to Leh bus along one of the highest and remotest roads in the world, nor was it braving the heat, humidity, and down pours of the Indian monsoon while passing through […]