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An Guide to Independent Trekking In the
Himalayas is currently being redesigned and incorporated in to a new site.
Nepal (Everest Region, Annapurna Region, Langtang Region) Nepal is perhaps the premier trekking destination in the world and no where is the trekking industry more developed than in Nepal. While this means more trekkers it also means that Nepal is the easiest place in the Himalayas to trek independently. Anyone can do it even if you've never hiked anywhere. Good maps and trekking guidebooks are available in the many bookstores of Kathmandu and Pokhara. On the most popular routes it would be nearly impossible to get lost. Tea Houses and Lodges are spaced so frequently along the main trekking routes in the Everest, Annapurna, and Langtang regions that you can walk for as long as you like and when you are tired or hungry there is rarely a time when a lodge is not within an hour or two's walk. If you don't like the "trekking highway" feel there are numerous minor trails and side trips in these regions so that in some cases you can hike all day without seeing a soul and then arrive in the evening at a lodge to meet up with fellow trekkers for some pleasant conversation over a hot meal or cup of tea. Where else in the world can you hike for more than a month in a remote mountainous and road-less area carrying little more than a day pack on as little as $10 to $15 a day. Below are an overview of the main "tea house" trekking routes in Nepal. This is intended just to help you decide where to go I did not include detailed information since there is plenty of information out there on how to do these treks independently. Nepal Trekking Practicalities To trek legally in Nepal you will need a TIMS (Trekkers Information Management System) card before you go on your trek. As of March 2010 these are no longer free. Nepal seems to be trying to further discourage individual trekking as the list of places that don't require guides and special permits has been shrinking over the years and now the new TIMS fee structure also socks it to the independent trekker. Individual trekkers must now pay a steep $20 (Groups through agents pay $10). TIMS cards are obtained from the new tourism complex just south of Ratna Park bus stand. Its a 20-30 minute walk from Thamel or you can go to any major street in Kathmandu and likely find a micro (minivan) that is heading to Ratna Park. This is also where you can find the offices to get the National Park Entry permits (1000 Nepali rupees) and Conservation Area entry permits (2000 Nepali rupees) they are no longer in the building on the east side of Thamel. For Annapurna you must get a Conservation Area permit before leaving for your trek. For Langtang and Everest you can buy your National Park entry permit when you enter the park, or ahead of time in Kathmandu if you feel like it. |
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Trekking Routes If you want to see high alpine scenery and big white mountains head to the Everest Region. Lukla to Everest Base Camp: One of the most popular routes in Nepal if any trek has the "trekking highway" feel to it, its this one. Since most people go out and back along the same trail you will be running into people constantly during the high trekking seasons of Fall and Spring. It is the quickest route to get to Everest Base camp and to catch a glimpse of the highest peak in the world from Kala Pattar (you can not see Mt. Everest from the Nepal Base Camp).
Gokyo Valley: Probably the second most popular route in the region, but deservedly popular. The Gokyo Valley is beautiful strewn with lakes all the way up the valley until the Tibetan border and the mighty 8201 m Cho Oyo. The valley also has some of the best views of Mt. Everest in Nepal. The view from "Knobby View" between the 5th and 6th lakes is one of the best trekking view points in the Himalayas.
Chukhung Valley: This valley holds Island Peak one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. The scenery around Chukhung is stunning and while there are no views of Mt. Everest, the beautiful Ama Dablam dominates the skyline. There are several day hikes that can be done from Chukhung including hiking up the viewpoints of Chukhung Ri (5559m/18,238 ft) and Chukhung Tse (5857m/19,216 ft). The Kongma La (5535m/ 18,159 ft) between Chukhung and the Lobuche in the Everest Camp Valley is one of the most beautiful in the region.
Bhote Valley: This is the western most valley that it is possible to Tea House trek in. From Gokyo, pass over the Renjo La (5417m/17,772 ft) with great views of Mt. Everest to reach the Bhote Valley. There is a Tea House/Lodge between Gokyo and Thame now despite what many books say, although it is possible to make it from Gokyo to Thame in a day. However, to explore the upper Bhote Valley you will need a tent.
Jiri to Namche Bazaar: This is the most popular route to walk into the Everest Region, that said it is much less popular than the fly in approach so that even in the high season you will likely only run into a handful of trekkers per day. It is a very strenuous approach despite not reaching the high altitudes found above Namche due to the numerous passes. While the views are not stunning it does give the trekker a taste of the middle hills and the villages are culturally more interesting than the "lodge towns" further up.
Arun Valley: This is another way to walk in/out of the Everest Region. I have not personally done this route but I include it here along with what I have heard about it. Less used by tourist but more heavily used by locals its probably the most culturally interesting of the trekking routes in the region. The main draw back is that it finishes in far eastern Nepal and a very long bus ride from Kathmandu. It is also a little longer than the Jiri route.
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Trekking to the Kongma La with Ama Dablam in the background, Everest Region, Nepal
View while crossing the Cho La to the Gokyo Valley, Everest Region, Nepal
View of Everest and Gokyo Valley from the Renjo La to the Bhote Valley, Everest Region, Nepal
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Trekking Routes The Annapurna region is the most diverse of the trekking regions in wide variety of landscapes and views as well as cultural sites such as monasteries and villages. Unfortunately the classic Annapurna circuit trek is being ruined with a road which is closet to completion along the Jomsom side of the circuit. Annapurna Circuit (Around Annapurna): Along with the Everest Base Camp trek it is probably the most well known trekking route in Nepal. The Manag side of the trek is amazing and still retains its classic feel. Since everyone goes the same way (counterclockwise) because the Thorung La is much easier form the Manang side than the Jomsom side it is easy to space yourself out and feel like you are trekking alone despite the treks popularity. On the Jomsom side things are not so rosy. Flown in Jeeps ply the road between Jomsom and Muktinath many more trekkers are encountered in both direction from the added people who are trekking the "Jomsom" trek (not worth the time in my opinion as it takes you through the least interesting part of the Annapurna Circuit). Still the Jomsom side has a number of great villages and some of the most comfortable accommodation in the Himalayas.
Tilicho Lake: This is a spectacular and very worthwhile side trip from the Annapurna Circuit. This lake sits at just under 5000 m and is surrounded by snow covered peaks.
Annapurna Sanctuary (Annapurna Base Camp): The spectacular view from Annapurna Base Camp a bowl surrounded by high white peaks in every direction makes this trek. This trek can be done on its own or tacked on to the end of the Annapurna Circuit trek. The view from Poon Hill (which is good but not as good as Sarangkot near Pokhara) can also be added to this trek.
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Prayer flags at "High Camp" before the Thorung La, Annapurna Region, Nepal
Full moon at Annapurna Base Camp, Annapurna Region, Nepal |
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Trekking Routes The Langtang region is less well known than the more famous Everest and Annapurna regions but it offers some of the best short trekking routes in Nepal. Its the fastest way to get up into high altitude scenery, in addition there are many lower altitude trekking routes between the villages in the area. I have not explored this region as thoroughly as the other two regions with only a quick week long trek up into the Langtang Valley but what I have seen of the region impressed me. Langtang Valley: The route up into the Langtang valley is relatively short and crosses no high passes. It is possible to go from Kathmandu up to 4000 m high altitude scenery in as little as two and a half days. Although if you are not previously acclimatized it would be wise to take it slower than that. Using Kyangjin Gompa as a base it is possible to do numerous day hikes throughout the valley reaching altitudes in excess of 5000 m. If you have a tent and a bit of food your options are even greater. I would rate this as the best short trek in Nepal.
Other Routes: There are numerous other routes which can be explored around the Langtang region. Most of them lower altitude routes between villages. But there is also the route past the pilgrimage lake of Gosain Kund which is a very popular option to link with the Langtang Valley and the route over the Gangja La pass. The Gangja La is often snow bound so inquire before setting out. The Tamang Heritage trial also gets good reviews from those looking for a less trekked area with more natural villages though it does not possess the same high mountain views as the Langtang trek.
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Langtang Valley, Langtang Region, Nepal |
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