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Tibet (Mount Kailash Kora, Ganden to Samye)
Trekking in Tibet is in its infancy and it is likely to remain that way as long as regulations is so cumbersome and unpredictable in Tibet. However, there are two routes that are fairly well established, the kora (cirumabulation) around the sacred Mt. Kailash (the holiest mountain for Tibetan Buddhist and Hindus alike) and the trek near Lhasa between Ganden and Samye monasteries. Other treks are certainly possible especially for those with their own gear but finding good maps and up to date information about routes is difficult.
The Chinese government changes regulations or at least enforcement of those regulations on a daily basis. They often close Tibet completely during politically sensitive times. It is not clear if it technically legal to trek independently in Tibet, probably not, but depending on the political conditions at the time it's still possible. Getting to Tibet technically requires you get a permit from a travel agent and be on a group, the enforcement of this regulation seems to change depending on how tightly the Chinese want to control who is entering Tibet. When I went in 2007 it was easy to avoid and I hopped on a train to Lhasa buying my own ticket in Golmud. Since the 2008 uprising I've heard its more difficult. Once in Lhasa you will still need separate permits to visit other areas. At one time it was easiest to obtain these permits independently from the PSB in Shigatse, for 50 RMB you could get a permit to all the places they were permitted to give permits for. So it made sense to list anywhere you might go when applying for the permit. To get out to the area around Kailash permits were more problematic, since Shigatse wouldn't issue them. If you made it to Ali (west of Kailash) rumor had it they would fine you then issue you a permit, its unclear if this is still true. To get there you would have to convince a bus to take you or hide in the back of a truck, both methods of transportation are technically forbidden to foreigners. The safest way to get out to Kailash is to book a jeep through a travel agent and share it with people you meet in Leh. When I was there they had just instituted a new regulation where permits to Kailash needed to take 10 business days the only point of which seemed to be to discourage foreigners from going to Kailash since most did not have visas long enough to enable them to wait around Lhasa for 10 days to get a permit. The moral of the story is check the current situation be for going. The lonelyplant thorntree forum is good for this: http://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/index.jspa
Tibet Treks
Trekking Routes More routes are certainly possible for equipped trekkers, see Lonelyplanet's "Trekking in Tibet" for more options, but these are two of the most popular which I have personally done.
The Kailash Kora From a trekking stand point this trek is easy to do independently, the route is obvious and there are monastery rest houses to stay at along the way so that a tent is unnecessary. However, getting there independently is much more difficult as I have outlined above in the Tibet Trekking Practicalities section. If you do manage to get there the scenery of western Tibet is stunning and the trek around Mt. Kailash is fascinating from a cultural, religious and scenic perspectives.
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Duration: |
2-3 days |
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Route Finding: |
Easy (heavily used pilgrim route) |
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Equipment needed: |
food is very limited in western Tibet in general, you can get hot water at the monastery rest houses to make your own instant noodles, bring food with you if possible, a sleeping bag is useful but not necessary |
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Comments: |
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Ganden to Samye This is a nice short trek over two 5000 m passes which can be done independently from Lhasa. Transportation to Ganden and from Samye is possible by public bus.
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Duration: |
3-4 days |
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Route Finding: |
Moderate (it is not always clear where the trail is, but using the rather vague directions in the Lonelyplanet "Trekking in Tibet" book and a good sense of direction its possible to navigate the route on your own) |
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Equipment needed: |
tent, sleeping bag, and food for at least 3 days |
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Comments: |
While a permit is not necessary for Ganden, it is for Samye, unfortunately you have to go to Shigatse to get one independently. I rolled the dice and didn't get a permit, intending to talk/bribe my way though it if I was asked. Fortunately I was not asked for one, but one of the guesthouse in Samye (the monastery run one and not the one I was staying in) was visited by police the night I was in Samye and foreign guests were asked for there permits. Permits are also often checked at the ferry crossing to get back to the main road to Lhasa from Samye, but they weren't when I went back. The first night of the trek it is possible to stay in the village on the other side of the ridge from Ganden. |
Mt. Kailash, the Kailash Kora, Tibet