4/11/2008 to 4/14/2008 | India , West Bengal

The long journey north and Calcutta

Man peers out of his window to watch the passing procession, Kailghat, Calcutta.

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When I left Hampi around two in the afternoon I was not looking forward to the journey ahead of me.  I usually try to avoid long hauls preferring instead to make my way slowly in a particular direction stopping to see places along the way.  However, I had spent longer in the […]

4/6/2008 to 4/10/2008 | India , Karnataka

Return to Hampi

Towards Virupaksha Temple from Hemakuta Hill, Hampi.

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On my first trip to India, having seen my father’s pictures of Hampi, I immediately wanted to go there myself.  The 16th century ruined capital of the Vijayanagar empire, set in a fabulous landscape strewn with boulders appeared to be a perfect place to live out my “Indiana Jones” fantasy.  As soon […]

4/4/2008 to 4/5/2008 | India , Karnataka

The Sculpture of the Hoysala

Detail on the 12th century Hoysalewara Temple, Halebid.

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Central Karnataka was ruled by the Hoysala dynasty during the 11-13th centuries.  Their temples were characterized by incredibly ornate sculptural detail, possible because the soft steatite soapstone used in construction oxidizes and hardens when exposed to air, beautifully preserving the artistry for almost a thousand years.  The Hindu temples of Halebid and […]

3/17/2008 to 3/20/2008 and 3/27/2008 to 4/3/2008 | India , Kerala , Tamil Nadu

The Ghats

Munnar, Kerala.

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The Ghats are southern India’s mountain range which stretches from its southern tip northward.  Before branching into the eastern and western Ghats which create the boundaries of the central plateau of India the Ghats run along the boarder between Kerala and Tamil Nadu.  It was this region in which I spent the […]

2/29/2008 to 3/3/2008 | India , Kerala

Cochin: Dialogue with a dying drifter

Kathakali performance, Cochin.

Prologue:

I once met someone who said they’d like to write a travel book only about the other travelers they met while on the road.  The places would be irrelevant to the story of the people.  As I write about my visit to Cochin thinking about what I will remember from the visit, […]