4/12/2010 to 7/20/2010 | Nepal

Kathmandu and the Buddha’s Birthday

12► When Sarah left I moved out of Thamel (the tourist ghetto of Kathmandu) to visit my friend Kili in the “suburbs” of Kathmandu.  Kili had a bad accident shortly after I had left Nepal last fall, leaving him paralyzed from the waste down.  It was hard to see this man who had […]

4/9/2010 to 4/11/2010 | Nepal

Kathmandu Again

12► I like Kathmandu.  Its certainly one of the cities I enjoy most on the subcontinent.  It’s got beautiful old buildings, Buddhist and Hindu temples, bustling markets, and upscale shopping malls.  If you’re looking for other foreigners to swap stories over a few drinks there is no shortage of bars and restaurants catering […]

4/2/2010 to 4/8/2010 | Nepal

Langtang: a bus ride from hell & a trek to heaven

123► Sarah had wanted to do some trekking in the Nepal Himalaya.  Given the limited amount of time I decided to take her to Langtang, which in my opinion is one of the best short treks in Nepal.  In at as little as three days from Kathmandu you can be at the base […]

10/10/2009 to 10/11/2009 | Nepal

Lumbini (Birthplace of the Buddha)

123► Every time I’ve left Nepal I’ve gone via Sunauli the border town with Indian state of Uttar Pradesh and only a short 17 miles from the birthplace of the Buddha at Lumbini.  Each time I see sign indicating the turn off for Lumbini, I think to myself I should stop there one […]

12/4/2009 to 12/5/2009 | Nepal

Everest Marathon, Politicians, and back to the “Du”

123► The day I had chosen to head back to Lukla from Deboche was an eventful day in the Khumbu.  It was the day of the Everest Marathon for those who think marathons at sea level on well maintained roads are just too easy.  The marathon follows a 26.2 mile route from Everest […]

11/29/2009 to 12/3/2009 | Nepal

Return to Gokyo

12345► Essentially being thrown unexpectedly back up into the Everest Region I wasn’t really sure what to do.  I did like the Gokyo Valley last time I was in the region (see original Gokyo post) so I had decided to return there, since there were still a few places in the valley I […]

11/23/2009 to 11/28/2009 | Nepal

Helicopter Hitching to the Khumbu

123► I woke up figuring it would be just like any other day in the past couple weeks, I’d go down to Kili’s office browse the internet, drink copious amounts of milk tea (chai), and do a bit of website work.  Little did I know, I’d leave the ground that day for the […]

10/24/2009 to 11/23/2009 | Nepal

Kick'n it in Kathmandu

I spent most of November hanging out in Kathmandu staying at my friend Kili’s house, doing some work on his website as well as updating my own. Kili is the man I met while trekking in the Everest region over a year and a half earlier, and the owner and founder of High […]

10/19/2009 to 10/23/2009 | Nepal

Tansen

12► I arrived at the border town of Mahendranagar in the early afternoon.  Everything was closed even many of the hotels.  It was the last day of the Nepali celebration of Deepwali a slightly different timing than the Indian version.  I eventually managed to find an acceptable room if a bit more than […]

5/22/2009 to 6/2/2009 | Nepal

Langtang, Nepal

1234► Fifty hours on 4 different buses along the hot Bhramaputra Valley of Assam and the sweltering plains of Nepal’s Terai brought me at last to Kathmandu. I had trekked the Annapurna Region and the Everest Region on my previous visits to Nepal, this left Langtang as the last of the three major […]

5/28/2008 to 6/4/2008 | Nepal

Trekking in the Everest Region V: The Renjo La, Bhote Valley, and back to Jiri

Lake next to Gokyo.

123► The previous day’s phenomenal weather at Knobby View was not a fluke but rather the beginning of a trend.  The sky was yet again spectacularly clear the morning we hiked westward over the Renjo La (5417m/17,772 ft pass) from Gokyo to the neighboring Bhote Valley.  From the prayer flag strewn top of […]

5/24/2008 to 5/27/2008 | Nepal

Trekking in the Everest Region IV: The Cho La to Gokyo

Cho Oyu 6th highest mountain in the world (8201m/26,906 ft) from Gokyo.

12► Knobby View Panorama It snowed most of the day I hiked to Dzonglha, the last lodge before the 5420m/17,782 ft pass to the Gokyo Valley known as the Cho La.  At the lodge in Dzonglha I met, Ben, an outdoor enthusiast from Minneapolis, Minnesota, with the accent to match.  He had started […]

5/20/2008 to 5/23/2008 | Nepal

Trekking in the Everest Region III: Kala Pattar & Everest Base Camp

Everest Base Camp and the Khumbu icefall, the treacherous start to the Everest climb.

123► As I hiked towards Gorak Shep, at the foot of Kala Pattar, and the last lodge settlement on the route to Everest Base camp, I struck up a conversation with a friendly Nepali man, named Kili Sherpa (pronounced Kee-Lee).  I ended up hiking with him and his cousin most of the way […]

5/16/2008 to 5/19/2008 | Nepal

Trekking in the Everest Region II: Chukhung to Lobuche via the Kongma La

Ama Dablam from the trail to the Kongma La.

123► My principal goal in Chukhung was to climb the near by peaks of Chukhung Ri (5559m/18,238 ft) and Chuckhung Tse (5857m/19,216 ft), the highest point in the area not requiring an expensive climbing permit.  On my first day I climbed up Chukhung Ri to test my acclimatization and see if I could […]

5/6/2008 to 5/15/2008 | Nepal

Trekking in the Everest Region I: Jiri to Chukhung

View of Taboche (far left) and Cholatse (center) peaks from Nangkartshang peak, Dingboche.

12► Everest, it’s a mountain that has fascinated the western world ever since it was determined to be the highest point on the planet in the mid-19th century.  It has drawn travelers and mountaineers to the region surrounding it, known as the Kumbu, ever since.  Seeing Everest for the first time inevitably brings […]

9/24/2007-9/31/2007, 11/6/2007-11/16/2007 | Nepal

Faces of Kathmandu: Street portraits from the city and surroundings

Kathmandu

12► Kathmandu and the surrounding towns and temples in the valley are great place to wander around and take a few photos.  Here are a few I took during my stay there.

9/24/2007-9/31/2007, 11/6/2007-11/16/2007 | Nepal

Kathmandu

Puja along the Bagmati River near Pashupatinath Temple, Kathmandu.

123► I must have liked Kathmandu because during each of my stays there I seemed to stay longer than I expected.  Checking out of the Hotel on each occasion, I had to recount the days, thinking, “Wow was I really here that long.”  I suppose that is mark of an intriguing city, which […]

11/9/2007 | Nepal

Patan

Durbar Square, Patan.

Patan like Bhaktapur is another of the old cities of the Kathmandu valley, closer to Kathmandu than Bhaktapur it has been nearly swallowed up by the expanding capital.  But it remains not quite as crowded as and a little quieter than its bigger neighbor.  This makes for the city slightly more pleasant walks […]

11/4/2007 to 11/6/2007 | Nepal

Bhaktapur

View from my hotel room over Tachupal Tole, Bhaktapur.

123► Bhaktapur is a beautifully preserved old city outside of Kathmandu.  Many people visit Bhakatpur as a day trip from Kathmandu, but I had heard it was nicer to stay overnight there, so I switched buses in Katmandu and move right on to Bhaktapur.  Coming all the way from Gorkha, I fortuitously arrived […]

10/26/2007 to 11/3/2007 | Nepal

Pokhara, Bandipur, and Gorkha

Fishtail Mountain from Pokhara.

12► I was happy to get back to Pokhara, rest, and eat, after 25 days of walking.  My shoes were in tatters, my cloths stunk (even more than usual), and after all but sprinting down from the base camp in a mere one and a half days, my knees where sore ready for […]

10/23/2007-10/26/2007 - | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas VI: The Annapurna Sanctuary

Predawn Annapurna I

12► After Poon Hill I was trekking on my own, heading off towards Annapurna Base Camp.  In the area right around Poon Hill there had been muggings in the past, and not wanting to have a repeat of my episode in Tibet I kind of hung around other groups during that stretch of […]

10/19/2007 to 10/23/2007 | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas V: Jomsom to Poon Hill

Dhaulagiri (8167 m or 26,951 ft) at sunrise from Poon Hill.

12► We moved a little slower through this section not because of weather this time but because Tom developed blisters on his feet.  The slower pace was not a problem as it allowed us to spend a little longer in Tukuche sampling the various brandy flavors at the local distillery and an extra […]

10/17/2007 to 10/18/2007 | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas IV: Snowed in at the Bob Marley

View from Muktinath after the snow storm.

12► Arriving in Muktinath was a welcome change after two days at the rather rustic High Camp.  Noting on our arrival that there was a lodge in town called Hotel Bob Marley, there was really no other place to stay given that my Canadian trekking companion was even sporting the Marley dreds.   Transportation […]

10/14/2007 to 10/17/2007 | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas III: Over the Thorung La

View towards the Annapurnas from Thorung La pass.

12► From Manang, the second time (courtesy of my snow blindness and need for sunglasses), we took two days to hike up almost 1500 m to High Camp at nearly 5000 m {16,500 ft}.  High camp is a couple of lodges at the foot of the Thorung La pass the highest pass on […]

10/10/2007 to 10/13/2007 | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas II: Tilicho Lake

Porters, Tilicho Lake.

12► From Manang we deviated off the typical circuit route to visit Tilicho Lake.  At 4914 m (over 16,200 ft), and depending on your definition of a lake, it qualifies as the highest lake in the world, a title which seems to be clamed by a number of high altitude bodies of water.  […]

10/3/2007 to 10/9/2007 | Nepal

Trekking in the Annapurnas I: Besisahar to Manang

Annapurna III, Manang, Annapurna circuit trek.

12► For the longest time, I had wanted to come to Nepal and hike the famed Annapurna circuit.  When planning my journey I had tried to time my arrival in Nepal for the best possible time to do the trek, just after the monsoon when the air is clear and the temperatures are […]