8/30/2010 | India , Jammu & Kashmir

Jammu: Been there done that

I spent a day in Jammu and that was about enough, after the cool climate of Ladakh and Kashmir the heat of Jammu was a shock to the system.  My mood was not improved by the overpriced lodging in the city, and I spent longer than I would have liked trekking through the […]

8/27/2010 to 8/29/2010 | India , Jammu & Kashmir

To Srinagar: A City Under Siege


With Tam and Kip’s departure by air that left me the sole guest remaining at the Tsavo Guesthouse.  I was well looked after by Zangmo and Angchu but most of the restaurants and shops in Leh had closed early for the season due to the exodus of tourists following the flash flood.  […]

8/19/2010 to 8/21/2010 | India , Ladakh

Turtuk: Eden on the Pakistani border


Tam and Kip had given up on a road exit from Ladakh and booked flights to Delhi.  There departure date left them time for one last trip in Ladakh.  We managed to hook up with a brother and sister from Britian and an Israeli girl to share a jeep to the Nubra […]

8/15/2010 to 8/16/2010 | India , Ladakh

Zingchen to Stok

One of the reasons Tam and especially Kip had come to Ladakh was to do some trekking in the high mountains.  The rains that brought such havoc on Leh had also washed away many trails and had swollen rivers to the point that they were impassable, not to mention the logistical nightmare of […]

8/14/2010 | India , Ladakh

Stakna to Matho

By the 14th of August the tourists in Leh had thinned out dramatically with most taking flights out town.  The roads to Manali and Srinagar were still closed but the roads to some nearby villages especially to the south had opened and bus services had begun again.  Having been stuck in Leh since […]

8/12/2010 | India , Ladakh

Spituk: The New Rimpoche


The day of the flash flood in Leh was supposed to be a day of celebration, it was the day that a young lama the 20th Bakula Rimpoche, Thupstan Ngwang Norbu  would be brought from his birth place in the Nubra Valley to his monastery at Spituk (near Leh) for the first […]

8/6/2010 | India , Ladakh

The Flood: Leh 8/6/2010


I remember thinking these houses are not made for this kind of rain.  The flat roofed traditional mud brick construction of many of the houses in arid Ladakh provides excellent insulation against the extremes of hot and cold but is less effective against the force of water.   The rain pounded ferociously against […]

7/29/2010 to 8/5/2010 | India , Ladakh

Leh the quiet before the storm


I first met Zangmo and Angchu when my Latvian friend Santa took me to one of the family style dinners held nightly at their Tsavo guesthouse when I was in Leh last year. I was impressed with the warm family atmosphere created by the Ladakhi couple in their guesthouse.  When I returned […]